Friday, June 12, 2009

Shedding light on the "black box"

Current TV journalists Euna Lee (L) and Laura Ling were sentenced Monday to 12 years in a North Korean labor camp

The case of San Francisco-based Current TV journalists Euna Lee (a Korean-American) and Laura Ling, who were sentenced by a North Korean court earlier this week to 12 years in a labor camp for illegal entry and an unspecified "hostile" act, has been grabbing a fair amount of coverage in the South Korean press. The story has even topped reports of another disturbing detainment case involving one of the country's own, a South Korean employee of the the inter-Korean Gaeseong Industrial Complex who's been held in the North since March 30 on charges of criticizing Pyongyang and trying to lure a North Korean worker into defection.

Covering North Korea can be both professionally challenging and potentially dangerous for journalists. Scoop-seeking reporters can hardly resist the temptation to snag exclusive photos across the heavily guarded border, and those who actually work their way into the secretive state are considered the lucky few, even if they're mostly fed propaganda and presented with an inaccurately attractive view of the place. But as long as the North remains an elusive, trash-talking, rights-violating nuclear threat, people will look to journalists to provide an inside look, however narrow it may be, into Kim Jong-il's bizarre regime. Although media reports have been fact-based and offer little editorial comment about Lee and Ling's case, I've heard several comments suggesting the reporters should be punished for hindering U.S. diplomatic efforts with North Korea, if not by North Korea then by their own government. Pyongyang is widely considered to be using the Americans as a bargaining chip in negotiations with the Obama administration, a tangled mess that many would agree didn't need additional knots.

This week I had the opportunity to interview someone who faces the challenges of covering North Korea on a daily basis, KBS domestic television reporter Lee Woong-soo (pictured at left). Mr. Lee's comments were included in Thursday's edition of Seoul Calling. Here's a transcript of the interview:

AR: Can you explain some challenges you face as a reporter when covering stories about North Korea?

LWS: North Korea is commonly known as the 'Black box' because it's extremely hard to gain access. This is very inconvenient for a reporter. Materials and data are also very rare. All the information we get is from either Rodong Newspaper or KRT(Korean Central News Agency), which are North Korea's own news sources. There are also North Korean defectors, but their information is very restricted and hard to verify.

AR: Do you think coverage of North Korea has changed under the Lee Myung-bak administration?

LWS: Of course it has. Not only between the North and South but also between the North Korea and America so as a whole, the news content has become fairly negative. The maintenance of the Kaesong Industrial Complex, missiles and nuclear tests, to name a few. It seems as if this state will continue for some time now. Regarding the past, diplomatic conversation almost always followed extreme circumstances, so hopefully, this tension will soon ease.

AR: As a reporter, do you find it frustrating to cover stories about a secretive nation?

LWS: As I've mentioned earlier, North Korea is a strictly controlled nation. It not only controls the citizens but also the flow of information, both in and out. No other country can match their system of control. North Korea only reveals information that works in their favour. Besides, The North's and South's relationship has worsened recently so it's even harder to gain access. North Korean related materials are difficult to verify so if anything happens in the North we feel extremely trapped.

AR: What do you think the South Korean people want to know about North Korea?

LWS: South Koreans want to know a lot about North Korea. Almost everything, to be clear. They want to know the North's way of thinking, and living. Because North Korean problems have a great political, economical, and social influence on the South and because of the belief that one day we will unite as one whole nation. The issue of the day might be the North Korean regime, or in other words, the destiny of Kim Jong-il's regime.

AR: Do you think journalists who cover North Korea have a responsibility to avoid dangerous situations that may impact their country’s diplomatic efforts with the North?

LWS: I think so, yes. The media should work towards keeping an eye on National Policy and informing the public, but not towards hurting national interests. Of course national interests should be differed from interests of the regime. Diplomatic issues are often [dealt with] in privacy. Especially the North. So the media should find a means of balance between the public's right to know and protecting national interests. Neither slanting towards the other. It's a very sensitive issue, like walking on a tightrope.

Thursday, June 11, 2009

Democratic fervor continues 22 years after historic movement

Wednesday marked the 22nd anniversary the June 10th, 1987 pro-democracy movement that led to South Korea's first direct presidential elections. Koreans struggled for their still-young democracy and now they're using their hard-fought rights to speak out against the current Lee Myung-bak government. This year's June 10th commemoration comes on the heels of the death of a former president known for his efforts toward democratization. His suicide added fuel to the fire of government opponents who accuse the Lee administration of infringing basic freedoms, such as the right to assemble and freedom of speech. Despite a police ban on yesterday's demonstration, some 30-thousand people flooded Seoul Plaza downtown. They were joined by about 12-thousand police officers. Although police attributed the ban to the chance that the gathering could turn violent and disruptive, the event was mostly peaceful. Local media are highlighting some isolated scuffles between police and demonstrators, but compared with the anti-U.S. beef rallies that grabbed international media attention last year for their violent clashes, yesterday's gathering was much less volatile.


Thursday's Seoul Calling program features interviews with some rally participants. My Seoul Calling co-host, Matt Kelley, and I were on the scene Wednesday evening. Thanks to Matt for these photos, which he shot while I conducted interviews.





Monday, June 8, 2009

Lady-friendly Seoul


Ladies only parking in Mokdong, western Seoul.
It's fun to imagine what the half-circle could be if not a skirt. Surfboard? Sunset?

In late April the Seoul Metropolitan Government announced plans to make Korea more female-friendly. Sounds great to those of my variety, but some the ideas put forth by the overwhelmingly male-staffed government to reach this goal are at the same time humorous and mildly offensive. Parking spaces designated as ladies-only have been a big media attraction. Complete with pink paint and skirted icons, the spaces certainly brighten up the city's public parking areas. Perhaps its not the idea itself that's questionably altruistic, but the way in which officials and media are describing it. Take, for example, this passage from the Korea Times:

The spaces will be painted pink with emblems of women in the center. The special parking lots will be longer and wider than normal parking spaces.

I guess stereotypes of female drivers are cross-cultural. Some web browsing tells me ladies-only spaces in other Korean cities may utilize differnet emblems to keep men at bay. Although the design below is purtier, I prefer the more elusive skirt/surfboard/sunset option.

Iksan opts for floral feminine markers

Although I don't drive in Seoul, I'd be more inclined to take advantage of the exclusive spots in a huge city where vehicles are plentiful and parking is scarce than to complain about sexism. The female-only spots are also reportedly well lit and located nearer elevators, exits, and security guards.

The media's go-to government spokesperson on this issue is Assistant Mayor for Women and Family Affairs Cho Eun-hee. Ms. Cho told the Korea Times, "It is like adding a female touch to a universal design and make things more comfortable for women."

Ladies only spots flank Yeouido Park

The she-spots, as my friend Matt likes to call them, are just part of the city's plan to make the ladies happy. In fact, the "Women Friendly Seoul" initiative is a 95-million dollar endeavor which includes installing nearly 7,000 female toilets around the capital and replacing heel-eating brick sidewalks with a more stiletto-friendly squishy surface. Personally, I'm a big fan of the bouncy sidewalks. Some even offer a deceptive brick-like design that once made my sister-in-law believe she had drunk one two many glasses of soju with dinner.

You can see a green squishy sidewalk in the back, left corner


Spicing up public transportation

Decorations abound in Seoul area public transportation these days. Silk flowers grace the interiors of city buses that serve my home-work route, along with banners declaring something about love, flowers, and Gwangmyeong City. I remember similar scenes aboard the same buses around this time last year, so it's possible the floral outpouring is in observance of May's family-focused holidays (Children's Day on the 5th, Parent's Day on the 8th) and Teacher's Day on the 15th.


Unfortunately, I didn't have my camera in hand over the weekend when I noticed strings of fake garlic hanging overhead in my subway train. The garlic, along with some scary-looking faux birds (I'm an ornithophobe), plastic crabs, and posters with scenic shots of Korea's western coastline were promoting the city of Taean. The region was struck by the nation's worst oil spill in December 2007. Since then, you can imagine why the once bustling fishing town has seen a decrease in visitors anxious to taste the local fare. Recent news reports say the water is clear these days, and the residents are no doubt hoping the government's efforts to draw visitors back will prove effective. KBS colleage Sarah Jun recently visited Taean and said she didn't encounter many crowds during her visit, but she did reluctantly indulge in some clams, from which she reported no ill side effects!

I'll try to catch the Taean subway car (Line 1) sometime this week and share some shots of the non-odoriferous garlic. (In my experience, public transport around Korea is already plenty redolent of garlic fields.)

Monday, May 18, 2009

To all the teachers who told me to shut my trap . . .

Because I was born on July 25, 1982, in the wee hours of the morning my wealth in life (although still unrealized) will come from my mouth.  That's according to a fortune teller in Seoul's Myeongdong neighborhood to whom my friend Maria and I paid a visit Sunday evening. Fortune telling is called 사주 (saju) in Korean and practitioners are generally well-respected and curiously trusted.  After asking for your four pillars -- year, month, day, and hour of your birth --  fortune tellers consult something of a trade bible of Chinese characters that apparently tells them when you'll marry, what kind of career you'll have, and possibly that your body will have a difficult time breaking down alcohol in your later years (at least that's what my fortune teller told me--bummer).  

Fortune telling is quite popular in South Korea with "professionals" commanding about 50 bucks for some quick projections about career, love, and health.  Venues ranging from ramshackle street kiosks equipped with kerosene heaters through Seoul's brutal winter to stylish coffee shops draw intrigued customers around the clock.  Some fortune tellers sell their wares over the phone or through the Internet.  The fortune telling business booms around the beginning of the year but it seems to attract customers year round.


Maria's reading 

Maria served as an eager interpreter through my reading, expressing what the fortune teller was saying through at times extremely comical direct translation .  As Maria delivered each prediction in English, the fortune teller would pause, lock eyes with me, and nod repeatedly with a solemn stare, coaxing me into belief.  I took hurried but comprehensive notes.  Here are a few of the things my fortune teller predicted:

-There will be many students in my future; I will likely teach at a university (woo hoo!)
-I make money with my mouth (direct translation)
-My words are like a never-ending waterfall and public speaking is my strong point
-This year or next would be a good year for me to get married
-The end of this year will be very busy for me and will likely include a major move or travel and a new job
-My character won't change as I grow old
-My parents really like my boyfriend
-I'll work professionally into old age
-My health is good, but my body will have problems breaking down alcohol later in life
-November 2009 will be a lucky month for me

The cafe walls are plastered in customers' post-reading reactions


Maria with a recap






Friday, April 24, 2009

Bus Crazies

The "worldwide economic downturn" is the scapegoat for just about any societal change in Korea these days, and perhaps in the rest of the world as well.  Here, it's reportedly leading to increased condom sales and lower marriage and birth rates.  Instant noodle manufacturers are enjoying a heyday, but restaurants are supposedly crying in their soup (although restaurants throughout the capital city look just as packed on weekend nights as they did one year ago). 

One thing I wouldn't dispute is that sales of cheap alcohol are on the rise.  The only hard evidence I have of this fact is the overwhelming stench of soju breath on public transportation these days, coupled with a group of people I'm calling the "Bus Crazies."  Sure, public buses in any city are prime venues for a ragtag cross section of society, but I think the oddity is definitely on the upswing.  I suspect the global financial crunch has pushed those teetering on the boundary between everyday weirdo and all-out loon well over the edge, and one-dollar Korean rice booze (soju, makgeoli--pick your poison) is all the nudging it takes.  I'm used to having no clue what's going on around me here in Korea, but when I notice all the locals are just as perplexed, I figure something is amiss.  I encountered the expressive gentleman below during a recent bus ride home from work.  It was quite entertaining to watch his monologue progress into a two or three character conversation -- with each role played by Mr. Makgeoli.



Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Busan


In late March, I finally took the opportunity to explore South Korea's second largest city, Busan, which also happens to be the world's fifth largest seaport. Located on Korea's southern coast, Busan is a popular destination for beachcombers, foreign sailors, Japanese tourists, and perhaps in 2020, Olympians. Busan is vying to play host to the 2020 Summer Olympics.

Enjoying some hwae (sushi) on Haeundae Beach. Photo by Matt Kelley.

A chilly Haeundae Beach

Now that you have the same image of Busan I had before seeing it in person--seafood, sandy beaches, colorful vistas--I can't help but share my actual first impression of the city. My KTX train chugged into town after dark on a Saturday evening and, since my cronies were stuck in traffic an hour away, I spent my first two hours upon arrival perusing the vicinity of the station. I was quickly lured into "Chinatown," a neighborhood seemingly inoccuous from afar. Despite the oriental moniker, once I ventured past the red lanterns hanging around the perimeter I began to wonder if I had somehow detrained in Vladivostok. The area may be the closest thing Busan has to a Chinatown, but it's every bit as much Russian sailorville, Southeast Asian prostitiuteburg, and American GI City. I suppose it's just like me to unknowlingly head straight for the seediest part of town, and then start taking pictures.

Chinatown, a.k.a. "Texas Street"

Thankfully, there's plenty to enjoy beyond Busan's mixing bowl of international vice. The ports, beaches, narrow alleyways, and cool bridges are all fun to check out on foot, but my favorite part of the trip was viewing the city from the sky. A trip up Busan Tower reveals a colorful, hilly port city oddly reminiscent of Latin America and San Francisco all at once. It sure ain't Seoul!



Haeundae is one of the nation's most famous beaches, drawing hundreds of thousands of visitors every weekend during warm-weather months. Unfortuantely for ornithophobes like me, it's also a hot spot for pigeons, seagulls, and the crazies who like to feed them. If I ever decide to overcome my fear through shock therapy, Haeundae would be a prime location to undergo treatment.

My worst nightmare on Haeundae Beach. Photo by Matt Kelley

For more detailed information about Busan, check out Matt Kelley's Discovering Korea blog.



Wednesday, March 25, 2009

Noryangjin Fish Market, Seoul


Seoul's largest wholesale fish market, Noryangjin, is located on the southeastern outskirts of Yeouido amid the shadows of the imposing skyscrapers of the capital city's "Manhattan". Follow your nose to the fish market and you'll feel like you've crossed over to the proverbial other side of the tracks. Goodbye glitzy Trump building, hello dingy fish town!



Since I paid my visit in the evening, I missed out on the lively, fast-paced market atmosphere. For that, I'd have to hit Noryangjin in the wee hours of the morning when vendors from 700ish individual shops bid on the day's catch. Around 7pm, the market was quieter than I had expected, with retailers surly feeling the fatigue of a long day's work and suited businesspeople looking for some after-work grub. The vinyl-aproned staff of Noryangjin's shops are obviously accustomed to the wide eyes and camera flashes of tourists, and I was surprised by how amenable most vendors were to my particuarly intrusive photo-snapping style.




The wide array of sea life was a bit overwhelming for a novice, and coming from a country where consumers are largely removed from the process of how a creature becomes cuisine, it felt a little strange selecting a live fish to be killed, sliced, and served on the spot. Thankfully, my KBS cohorts were experienced shoppers and hagglers.





After bargaining for whatever fits your fancy, market employees quickly and deftly turn live swimmers into sashimi. Then they neatly arrange the fish on sturdy paper plates, complete with little oniony garnishes. The remaining carcass is bagged up and saved for a reappearance in tasty soup. Save room for the eyeballs!

One of Noryangjin's greatest features is its adjacent restaurants where you can round out your experience, and your belly, by digging right into your purchase. All the necessary accouterments (soy sauce, wasabi, lettuce, kimchi) are on hand, and restaurant staff begins cooking your fish remnant soup while you get started on the raw fish. It's not fancy, but it was fresh and very economical. My group of six paid about $20 each for as much sashimi, fish soup, seafood pancake (해물파전), and soju we could handle.





Sunday, March 1, 2009

Media is the new U.S. beef


About ten years ago the government turned Yeouido asphalt slab into Yeouido Park. By the time I arrived in Seoul, it had become a lovely, verdant spot redolent of cherry blossoms in the springtime and the far less appealing beondegi (silk worm larvae) whenever food vendors set up to serve the passersby.  I've heard the impetus for cultivating the park was the government's hope to squelch mass demonstrations by civic groups that had become frequent occurrences on Yeouido asphalt slab.  

If that were truly the goal, however, perhaps they shouldn't have left a sizable amount of asphalt in the middle.  Most days just bikers, rollerbladers, and basketball players occupy the space, but anytime the country becomes ripe with government distaste (which seems to occur frequently), the park revisits its past.  The hot button issue of the month is a set of controversial media reform bills, which include the government and ruling party's plan to privatize the broadcasting sector (something I might even be convinced to fight against if protesting were my thing--instead, I just take pictures).  Home to the nation's three top broadcasters and the parliament building, Yeouido was the perfect spot for unionists and other activists to gather Saturday afternoon for a good old fashioned protest.  At least it's not about U.S. beef this time!




Saturday, February 14, 2009

Happy Valentine's Day!


An orphan Valentine card collects rain drops Friday.  

The 14th day of the month is almost always some kind of occasion in Korea.  Yesterday was Valentine's Day, of course, a holiday which is gaining popularity by both lovers and businesses each year, but it's just one in a string of "Days" that call upon one subgroup or another to celebrate, bestow, mourn, eat, or get drunk whilst walking in the woods.  For instance, the month of October utilizes a homonym for its 14th.  Koreans give apples (sagwa) to apologize (also sagwa) for past infractions.   Here are some shots taken around Seoul on Friday and Saturday.

Saturday morning subway traffic was sparse, but I did notice a few passengers laden with gifts, cakes, and flowers.

Despite what I thought was charming coaxing on my part to get Ms. Flowers to remove her hand from her mouth, she didn't oblige.  Maybe she had chocolate on her teeth.  Nonetheless, she and her beau seemed to be having a delightful Valentine's Day.

Korea's commercial sector has fully embraced the Western holiday.

Convenience store employees braved Saturday evening's cold temperatures to peddle V-Day goodies near subways and bus stops.

Valentine’s Day in Korea favors dudes, since it’s widely accepted as an occasion for women to profess their affection for the men in their lives through chocolates, cakes that look too cute to cut, and any number of other well-marketed goodies that spoony lovers can’t resist. For more about Korea’s unique Valentine’s Day customs, see last year’s post.

Wednesday, February 4, 2009

Snow days

Here are some belated photos I took during and after a spattering of snow over the Lunar New Year holiday. As I mentioned last week, Seoul has seen warmer temperatures in the first couple weeks of the (lunar) new year, so these may be the last shots of the white stuff for awhile.


Braving the snow for a shopping trip through Seoul's Edae neighborhood, home of Ewha Womans University. I'm not sure if using umbrellas during a snowfall is unique to Korea (maybe my international readers can help me here), but I've never witnessed it in other countries. Makes sense, though!

A romantic, and icy cold, walk along the Cheonggye Stream that runs through downtown Seoul.

Interesting advertising strategy outside an Edae shop, but I didn't notice any takers during the five or ten minutes I spent observing the peculiar scene.

No takers for the "Fresh Fruit Candy", either, but you have to applaud the tenacity of the vendor.

Friday, January 30, 2009

Has spring sprung?!


Probably not, but the balmy temps and sunny skies over Seoul today have me daydreaming about shedding the winter coat and pulling on the short pants. At 12 degrees Celcius (about 54F), it's hard to believe the city was covered in snow just a few days ago (I'll post some snow pics this weekend). I joined some colleagues from the English news department for a lunchtime jaunt around Yeouido and noticed many people out enjoying the break in wintry weather. I've been told it's typical for Korea to experience a string of three cold days followed by four warm days throughout the winter. It's called sam han sa on (삼한 사온), literally, "three cold, four hot".


Monday, January 26, 2009

Ring in the (Lunar) New Year with SPAM!



When I return to work on Wednesday after a four-day vacation in the name of the Lunar New Year, my Korean colleagues will all be a year older. Never having adhered to customs associated with the moon, I'll still be 26 (not 28--Koreans are considered one year old at birth and add on one year with each birthday, as well as on the Lunar New Year). So I'm spared a year, but since I don't really celebrate Seollal I did miss out on something many across the country received as a token of love or appreciation on Korea's most widely celebrated holiday: a gift set. From the practical to the extravagant, the edible to the spreadable, almost anything can be found packaged neatly in a gift set around the Lunar New Year. A local newspaper reported that ginseng is this year's gift of choice, but multi-packs of Spam, soap, assorted nuts, cooking oil, toothbrushes, whisky, tuna cans, apples, instant coffee, and moisturizers are also in bountiful supply in supermarkets, big box stores, and even convenience stores. These economic arrangements are typical around Christmas in the U.S., but the variety pales in comparison to what Korea has to offer. I'm not sure what giving (or receiving) a two-year supply of toothpaste says, but I've certainly seen worse gifts.

Mushrooms and the like ranging from about $40 up to $100

E-Mart employees were decked out in traditional hanbok a day before Seollal and eagerly peddling gift sets.

Those oughtta be some tasty apples!  12 for ~$45


Friday, January 16, 2009

Never . . . eating . . . McDonald's . . . again . . .


Although I've indulged in Mickey D's more often than I'd like to admit in in the Unites States, I've largely avoided it since moving to Seoul. This is mostly because I've tried to establish and maintain a healthier lifestyle, but also because I always fear that locals who see me entering the store will think, "Check out the fat American going in for a Big Mac!"

But after my friend and KBS co-worker, Luke, and I underwent a months-long diet and exercise regimen (during which french fries and cheeseburgers started to sound mighty appetizing) we decided to take a trip to McDonald's to devour all the greasy, salty, mystery meaty goodness we could possibly stomach. And the point was to eat as much as we could. We wanted to kill the temptation once and for all, or at least for the next six months or so. So after hitting my lowest weight since high school earlier this week we decided now was as good a time as any to embrace our inner over eaters.

Between us, we ate one Big Mac, six cheeseburgers, one McChicken sandwich, two medium orders of french fries, one large order french fries, three strawberry milkshakes, one chocolate milkshake, three Cokes, and about twelve packets of ketchup. For me, it was literally a gut-wrenching experience. For one thing, I don't handle dairy well in this country, so I was feeling sick half way through the first milkshake, yet proceeded to drink the rest plus one more. The physical implications started there and quickly spiraled downward. The next morning Luke claimed the food extravaganza had given him acne. Neither of us is craving McDonald's anymore, though!



Luke used McDonald's nutrition facts to calculate our caloric intake. As he itemized our smorgasbord of gluttony on grease-stained receipts I wriggled around in my chair, trying to find the most comfortable position for my bulging belly and aching midsection. The result: 3,500 calories for Luke and 2,375 for yours truly.