Autumn in Seoul

My senior English service colleague, Mr. Chae, and I took a stroll through the KBS "Sunken Garden" after lunch on Monday. Fall is beautiful in Seoul! The park across from KBS looks like a quilt of autumn colors when I look down onto the trees from my office window.

My technological experience

Upon moving to the land of the technologically savvy (or at least those who have figured out how to build electronics most cheaply), I had some assumptions about what this could mean for me. Turns out, like many other things, my speculations have been pretty far off-base. First of all, I assumed consumer electronics like televisions, cell phones, cameras, and stereos would be less expensive than in the U.S. That's certainly not the case. When I decided to buy a cordless phone for my apartment, I was shocked to find out that these handy items that go for as little as $30 in the States can't be found for less than $100 here. In order to get a decent one (the first one I bought was dysfunctional--NO, not the operator) I had to shell out about $150. Just for dramatic effect, let's call it 150,000,000 Korean won! I decided the freedom to roam around my apartment, indulging my Attention Deficit Disorder while I chit chat is well worth millions of won.

Here's a picture of my cell phone. I actually got a pretty good deal on this. It was about $100, plus a fee for my monthly service plan. What I'd like to call special attention to, however, is the little black squarish thingy dangling from the phone. It's called a "Pebble" and it might just be my favorite technological advancement yet. And IT was only four million won ($4 USD).



The Pebble is a handy dandy little doodad that stores credit for public transportation fares. When you board a bus or pass through a turnstile at a subway station, you hold the Pebble up to a sensor and the cost of your trip is automatically deducted from your balance. You can reload the Pebble with money at any subway station by holding it up to a machine and inserting your desired amount of cash. It costs me about one dollar to get to work on the bus each day. You can also use the same method to pay for things in subway convenience stores.

The other dangly thing on my phone is just a KBS accessory. Most Koreans have one decoration or another (or ten) hanging from their cell phones. I noticed the same fad when I visited Japan in August. I've found it very interesting to check out the various accessories people have chosen for their phones. It takes people watching to a whole new level.

A little side job

My students. Seohyeon, 9, left. Seojin, 8, right.



I started giving English lessons to two sisters, ages eight and nine, after work today. I will tutor them for one hour every Monday night. Although they attend an English institute, I was amazed at how well the girls could read. They hadn't seen any of the books before and were able to read them cover to cover, pronouncing everything almost perfectly. Although they can sound out words very well, I'm not sure how much of the story is comprehended. I stopped a few times to ask questions. After the character in one story, " . . . nodded in agreement," I asked the girls, "Do you know what it means to nod?" They just stared back at me blankly.

After reading four books we just sat and chatted and their mother brought out colorful trays teeming with fruit. When the subject of age came up, Seohyeon guessed "Teacher" is 32 (Ahhh!). Seojin was much more kind, guessing 23.

KBS World Radio--English Newscast

Here's a short video of part of a newscast. I made a pretty poor showing, actually, but it gives you the idea. I recorded it on my digital camera. For those of you who can access our programming via the KBS World website, the quality (and performance) is usually much better than this.

Subway shopping

Subway stations in Seoul are underground marketplaces buzzing with commerce around the clock. I went through four stations today on a trip to Itaewon and discovered you can buy everything from household plants to makeup to groceries on your way from one stop to another. The quality of items is questionable (ties for $2.00, "silk" scarves 2/$3), but just looking through the myriad options is mind-boggling. Items for purchase range from imported goods from all over the world to crafts, artwork, and food being made right at the station. Here are some shots I took in Sindorim, Hapjeong, and Itaewon stations.

Yes, Mom, I'm eating

Many people have asked me about food in Korea: if I like it, what I miss about American food (if there is such a thing as "American" food), and if I can buy American brands in local grocery stores. I really enjoy Korean food, and I'm surprised to report that I really haven't missed American food very much. I didn't think I'd be able to make it a week without Mexican food, but that hasn't been a problem, either. I did buy mass quantities of cheese, salsa, and tortillas last week at Costco that will probably satisfy my Mexican cravings for months. Costco offers many American brands and foods typically eaten in the States, but like Costco or Sam's Club in the U.S., you have to buy everything in massive portions.

I realized yesterday that I've now been in Korea for a longer period of time than I've ever spent in a foreign country. It's been four weeks and it's amazing how time has passed by so quickly. When I was still in the U.S. anticipating my move, I figured I'd have a "freak out" sometime between weeks three and eight. Once the newness wore out and the reality of a major life change set in, I thought maybe I'd question my decision, miss my friends and family in the U.S. terribly, and be anxious to trip home as soon as possible. So far, the opposite is true. I do miss friends and family, but the Internet and my phone make it possible for me to be in contact with people nearly as often as I was when living in the States. I am completely comfortable here, have integrated well into my work environment and living situation, and the place is seeming less and less "foreign".

Hongdae

I visited a section of Seoul called "Hongdae" last night and had a great time. I went with one of our English team freelancers, Sarah, who is a Korean American from Hawaii. She has been in Korea for three years and has been freelancing for KBS for over a year.

Hongdae is a very vibrant, bright, and busy place with an eclectic mix of shops, restaurants, bars, and street markets. It draws a young crowd, many of them students at Hongik University, and is well-known for its independent music scene. Since it has a campustown-like feel, you can find cheap food of almost any ethnic variety. Like Itaewon, it has a reputation for drawing foreign tourists and expats, but the overall feel is less "western". For instance, I had a difficult time communicating with shop clerks in English . . . something that is very easy to do in Itaewon.





Sarah, preparing our meal. This is a very popular Korean-style barbecue pork, called "samgyeopsal". Every table has its own grill where you prepare your own food, adding an assortment of vegetables and spices. It's delicious!

Flat Stanley visits South Korea

Flat Stanley is a learning tool for grade schoolers in the U.S. that teaches them about places all over the world. Every time a student goes to a new place, he or she takes Flat Stanley along and has a picture taken with him in that place. When the student comes back to school, the rest of the class learns about the place: it's geography, culture, foods, and other random facts. One of my former co-workers at WIU asked me to take Flat Stanley to South Korea with me and send it back to his son's class in Carthage, IL. Flat Stanley joined one of my radio shows this week, so I'll send this picture along with facts about South Korea and a CD copy of the radio show.

This is Flat Stanley and me with my co-host, Chris Dykas, right before our show, "Seoul Calling".

Ms. Rhodes, your autograph?

I walked into the lobby of KBS Monday and just as I was approaching the security turnstiles a group of three excited and chattering young girls came rushing up to me, stopping me in my tracks. They formed a little semicircle in front of me and each shoved little notebooks with bright colored paper into my hands. They eagerly but politely commanded, "Sign, please! Sign, please!" I was dumbfounded, but in true celebrity style I graciously smiled and grabbed the Hello Kitty pen that was thrust into my fingers. For a split second I considered scribbling "Madonna" or "Britney Spears" but then thought better of it. These girls were probably too young to even know who Madonna is. So, I neatly signed my name, wondering where these little notebooks would end up and what kinds of stories would be attached to this experience. I suppose there's a chance they actually mistook me for a real celebrity, but chances are they were just intrigued by a white chick walking into a popular state broadcaster (she must be something important). Either way, it made me laugh and was one of the great head-scratcher moments that have made this experience so much fun.

Changgyeonggung Palace Excursion

I visited Changgyeonggung (Palace of Flourishing Gladness) with Sophia's family today. It was a gorgeous day--plenty of sunshine, 65-degrees, and the signs of autumn all around. The palace was originally built in the 15th century by King Sejong as a dwelling place for his parents. It was destroyed twice by the Japanese and actually turned into a zoo the second time--a tremendously offensive gesture. A fifth of the original structures survived or have been rebuilt since the two occupations.




Danny and Debbie showing their reverence for sacred grounds.


I told Danny about my hatred for birds, so he did me a favor and chased this one away.

A day in the life

Welcome to my apartment! Let's take a look around.






My office. I spend most of my time here when I'm at home.






My apartment building. When I first moved to South Korea, the pink color of this complex was the only way I could figure out where I was and where I lived.



School kids pass me while I'm waiting for the bus every morning. Usually they stare, sometimes they'll speak, and they always giggle.



My morning bus ride. Thankfully, I get on when almost every seat is open.



KBS World Radio International Broadcasting Team. Each language (11, including Korean) has its own section, denoted by the white signs hanging from the ceiling.



A note Sophia's daughter, Debbie, left for me earlier this week.



The view from my office. That's Yeouido Park across the street. It's a great place to walk, run, or ride a bike.

English Team freelancers

With English service freelancers Chris Dykas (from California) and Sarah Jun (from Figi). Chris and I host "Seoul Calling" together two days a week.

KBS World International Broadcasting Team

Taken right outside my office Thursday, October 18.

"Worldwide Friendship"

My co-host, Soyon Kim, for "Worldwide Friendship", a one-hour weekly program.

No such thing as personal space

Last week I heard the phrase "touch culture" jokingly used to refer to the way Koreans push and shove with reckless abandon. Now, let me point out right away that my experience with the people here has been great. Koreans are very gracious, friendly, and extremely generous, but they have no concept of personal space.

When I was in college, my friend Sara used to "test" my personal space issues by inching closer and closer to me when we were together. I had no idea I was doing it, but every time she'd get closer, I'd take a step away. She thought it was hilarious and only filled me in on her little scheme after months of empirical research. So, clearly I value the little bubble around me.

Most of the time, this isn't problem unless you're in a crowded city bus or on the subway, but it really doesn't matter where you are or what you're doing. . . if someone bumps into you, steps on you, or knocks you upside the head with a shopping bag, you won't get an apology. It's as if there's a nation-wide agreement that since Koreans are so often in tight quarters, there's no need to excuse yourself every time you brush up against someone. I even saw an old man get kicked in the head by a half-asleep passenger on the bus yesterday! No apology!

Outside the public transportation system, however, I've had two experiences in the last 24 hours that have really tested my personal space issue. First of all, sales people in department stores. They will be ON you the second you step foot in their department and they will NOT leave your side until you exit. It drives me crazy. It makes for a very uncomfortable shopping experience when every time you touch something, even if you don't move it out of its place, there's someone right there behind you "fixing" it once you're finished looking.

This evening, I was walking across a bridge nearly as wide as a city street. There were only about five people on the bridge from one end to the other, so it wasn't crowded at all. After just getting off a city bus, I'm thinking, "Finally . . . some SPACE!" Then, out of nowhere, an elderly gentleman falls in stride with me so close that his arm is brushing mine as we walk. And he stays there! We walked the entire length of the bridge practically arm-in-arm. I suppose that makes Awkward Experience #49.

Good to be a "regular" worker

These protesters invade the steps of KBS every day . . . all day. Their stereos blare loud music that penetrates the entire building. For the first few days, I found it very difficult to concentrate on writing when the music was playing, but now I'm more apt to notice when it's not playing.

They are "non-regular workers" for KBS, demanding the benefits and job security regular employees receive. I was trying to find out if the protocol with regard to picket lines in the U.S. is applicable in South Korea, but I'm not sure anyone understood the question. I said, "What if I just cut right through the middle of them?" Everyone thought I was just joking and laughed, suggesting I use a different entrance instead. Maybe I'll try it tomorrow and let you know how it goes.

Sophia and me Monday, October 16, at work. I promised her I'd tell everyone she looks better in person.

This is a picture of my apartment complex taken from the closest subway station. My building is in the most prominent complex in the image, across the river. The recreation areas along the water draw many people on the weekends. It was about 75 degrees and mostly sunny today, so it was very busy.

This is Sophia's daughter, Debbie, and me October 13 before a shopping trip to Itaewon.

KBS Pictures

My German counterpart, Sebastian, and me at the PBI Conference. We're not sure who invited us, but we had a good time!



With Sophia, chief of KBS World Radio English Service. We're like two peas in a pod.

Thriving on Awkward

The photo seen above took place only because I thrive on awkward moments. That's the president and CEO of KBS, Jung Yun-Joo, and me at the Public Broadcasters International conference last night. Now, I probably wasn't even supposed to be at the PBI conference, as indicated by Mr. Jung's reaction to my personal introduction only hours before this picture was taken.

Let's go back to the beginning. The Public Broadcasters International conference is an annual event that draws presidents and other "important" people from public broadcasting outlets all around the world. So, we're talking BBC (Great Britain), NHK (Japan), and a host of other major outlets. I had the opportunity to look through the list of registered participants (of which I was not listed), and let me tell you; these broadcast companies aren't sending Reporter Joe Schmo (or Producer Abby Rhodes, for that matter) to this convention. Most delegates are high-ranking, accomplished individuals in their respective organizations. KBS, for instance, was represented by our president and CEO. Any other KBS employees involved in the conference were facilitating the event or doing some other type of grunt work that ensured the festivities ran smoothly.

So, how I ended up at the PBI convention two nights in a row still remains a mystery. Thankfully, I wasn't alone. Four other KBS World Radio foreign service employees attended along side me, each one of us as clueless as the next as to how we became involved. Of course, it seems obvious that KBS would tout its international staff and services as part of a convention of this sort, maybe parade us around a bit as a visual testament to the company's efforts to bring Korean public broadcasting to a worldwide audience. Perhaps someone down the chain of command did think of that. After all, we were invited . . . by someone. Someone who apparently doesn't report to Mr. Jung.

It's no surprise that I brought upon myself the awkward situation that ensued when I decided I should probably meet Mr. Jung. I usually rely on Sophia to introduce me to the movers and shakers around KBS, but since she wasn't there, it was time to fall back on my smooth and fearless (a.k.a. shameless) social skills. So, here's the scene:

After a long day of conferencing, the PBI delegates (I DO have a name tag that dubs me "Delegate") arrive at a beautiful, scenic resort to enjoy cocktails and dinner. We stroll through a maze of brick sidewalks, "Oooo-ing" and "Ahhh-ing" at the nature surrounding us, taking deep breaths of fresh air untainted by city pollution. As we descend onto a flat expanse of golf-course green grass, we are handed glasses of champagne and encouraged to enjoy snacks neatly arranged on sporadically-placed tables. I down a glass of champagne and think, "What better time for me to introduce myself to the Prez!" That's logical, right? I figure I'm doing him a service. Now he won't have to go out of his way to introduce himself to me.

I set my empty glass down on a linen-clad table and commence my confident stroll over to Mr. Jung. He is surrounded by a few important people (so important I have no idea who they are), so I hang back for a lull in the conversation before I take my valiant leap into what will surly go down as one of the most awkward moments of my South Korean adventure. To best describe the conversation that ensued, I'd like to switch now to a transcript of the exchange.

Abby: "Mr. Jung, I'm Abby Rhodes . . . "

(Extension of my hand for a painfully awkward handshake)

Mr. Jung: No repsonse

Abby: " . . . I was recently hired as the new foreign staff member of KBS World Radio."

Mr Jung: No response.

Abby: ". . . English service."

Mr. Jung: "Oh. What a surprise to see you here."

(Long pause as I realize Mr. Jung has no idea who authorized this invitation . . . and perhaps didn't even know KBS had a World Radio service)

Abby: "Well, thank you for inviting me. This is a beautiful resort. (Stupid, stupid, STUPID!!!)"


My co-workers teased me about "outing" us and we all spent the rest of the night wondering how soon we'd be asked to get the hell outta there. We managed to enjoy our five-course dinner, fancy gift from Samsung electronics, and exclusive tour through the private resort.

As dinner was winding down, it was clear Mr. Jung was really enjoying himself. Copious amounts of champagne and wine were obviously imbibed by the head table because by 8:00 our esteemed president was dancing from table to table, hugging everyone, and posing for pictures left and right. That's when I decided maybe Mr. Jung and I got off on the wrong foot. Surly I had just overwhelmed him with my confident approach and stunning professionalism. Plus, if the president of the Canadian Broadcast Corporation can get a picture with Mr. Jung, I should be able to, too!

So, unscathed by my first awkward encounter with the Prez, I boldly approached Mr. Jung and one of his European counterparts and asked to have a photo taken. You'll notice by our friendly embrace . . . we've let bygones be bygones.

PBI Conference

Here's a shot of me with Ramiro (left), the Spanish service foreign staff member, and Eric, from the French service. This was taken outside KBS at a dinner held for PBI delegates. You can see one of the KBS broadcast towers behind us.

With the Japanese foreign staff member at the KBS Special Concert for PBI Delegates. It was a great show!

Public Broadcasters International Conference

KBS is hosting the annual Public Broadcasters International convention this week. Here's the banner hanging on my office building. I stole these pictures from the KBS website. My office is actually right above the banner. As soon as my camera is up and running, I'll post more pictures!

I'll be attending parts of the conference Thursday and Friday and anticipate interviews with broadcasters from Australia and Canada.